5-14-2013 New Chimney Flues And Chimney Wash Installed

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Green vs. Seasoned 

  

Green Firewood has moisture content greater than 50%. Any logs that have been cut down within 12 months should be considered green. A healthy standing tree will have a moisture content between 60% and 100+% (Yes, some trees can be more water than wood!). Thus green wood is any wood that has a moisture content of more than 50%, therefore making burning very ineffective because the potential BTU's (heat) of the wood will be lost in the release of the water through steam. The only true way to decrease the moisture content of wood is by opening the surface area of the wood to allow the water to evaporate via heat and air transfer. Firewood will not begin to fully season until split. You cannot completely season firewood in log or block form.Signs of green firewood include: very tight end grain, uniform wood color, heavy wood, intact bark, mold/fungus, strong smell, sap, bugs or a dull "thud" when pieces are banged together end to end. 

  

Seasoned Firewood has moisture content less than 40% that will allow the wood to burn effectively and release the potential BTU's (heat). Wood that has been properly split and stored will promote the evaporation of water. In most areas of the country, especially the Northeast, it will take up to 12 months for split hardwood to be properly seasoned. Wood with more than 40% moisture content should not be burned for home heating. The minimum moisture content for optimal BTU's is no more than 20% to 30% moisture and as low as 10%. Below 10% the wood will burn too quickly. Signs of properly seasoned firewood include: checks (cracks) in the ends, loss of wood color, lighter wood, loss of bark, no signs of mold/fungus, lack of smell and a loud "clang" when banged together end to end (like a baseball bat). 

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods 

  

Hardwoods are very dense and they have more BTU's (= heat) per volume as compared to softwoods. They tend to be more difficult to start but will burn longer and release a good amount of heat. For all pratical purposes hardwoods are the best choice for firewood. Some hardwoods are better to burn than others. On Long Island we mainly burn Oak and Maple. They are excellent hardwoods for burning (as long as they're seasoned properly). Other quality burning hardwoods include: Ash, Beech, Birch and Hickory. There are other quality hardwoods but they are impractical to obtain in volume for firewood. Although most hardwoods do burn well there are a few that do not: Elm, Popular & Sycamore are among a few hardwoods that have poor burning characteristics. 

  

Softwoods are less dense than hardwoods and tend to burn very quickly. They are good for starting a fire but will release a low amount of BTU's (= heat) per volume. Due to the high amount of sap in softwoods they are not recommended as indoor firewood. They may build up dangerous amount of Creosote in your chimney. If you do burn softwoods as firewood the following are the best choices: Doug Fir, Yellow Pine and Spruce. Most softwoods are best used as kindling and Cedar is among the best for that purpose. Cypress is among the worst softwood for firewood.

Hello,

Chimney Leak?     

     If you notice rain or water coming down your chimney or even down the wall or ceiling close to your chimney there is a very good chance the leak is from a chimney more than likely it’s not a roofing issue. People spend a lot of frustrating time and money trying to correct a leak by patching the roof when they should be spending their time and money on the chimney or chimney flashing.   

Thank You, 

North Coast Masonry

216-326-8174

Hello, 

I heat with gas. Should this chimney be checked too? 

   Yes, Although gas is generally a clean burning fuel, the chimney  can become non-functional from bird nests or other debris blocking the flue.

Thank You, 

North Coast Masonry 

216-326-8174

Hello, 

 

Reducing Creosote Buildup,  

 

     Restricted air supply, unseasoned wood and cooler than normal chimney temperatures can accelerate creosote buildup inside your chimney. To counteract creosote production, it is advisable to burn well-seasoned, dry wood that burns hotly and produces byproducts that exit the chimney quickly. Opening the damper fully and leaving fireplace doors open whenever possible increases air flow and dramatically decreases creosote buildup. The occasional burning of a chimney- cleaning log dislodges creosote and sends it harmlessly up and out of the chimney stack.   

Thank You,

North Coast Masonry 

216-326-8174

Hello, 

 Chimney Saver Why Use It?      

     According to the Brick Industry Association, chimneys require special attention and maintenance to prevent costly damage caused by water penetration. Because chimneys project above the roof line, they are vulnerable to the elements. Nearly every chimney you encounter has signs of water damage! The first step is to determine the cause and then find the best corrective measures. ChimneySaver, the first product developed specifically for chimneys, has been used successfully by leading chimney professionals for nearly 20 years. It reduces water penetration into the masonry by 99.9%, according to ASTM tests conducted at the University of Wyoming.      It’s also 100% vapor permeable, which means it won’t trap water vapors that may pass through the bricks when the chimney is in use, unlike other products found in most hardware or home improvement stores. Those products when applied to a masonry chimney can actually slow down water vapors as they pass through the chimney leading to water damage   Seven Year Warranty   100% Vapor Permeable   Environmentally Friendly   Non Glossy Look   Efflorescence/Stain Protections   Mildew/Fungus Resistant   Freeze/Thaw Protection   Water-based and environmentally   

Thank You,

North Coast Masonry 

216-326-8174